thesis

Le Four et le snack : essai sur les mutations des sensibilités alimentaires en France : 1960-1980

Defense date:

Jan. 1, 1987

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Institution:

Paris, EHESS

Disciplines:

Authors:

Directors:

Abstract EN:

From the 1960's to the end of the 1980's, not only transformations in life style but also increased household income have allowed for a restructuring of the french dietetic repertoire. From the sterile and purified to the raw and uncooked, from ready to eat fare to deceptively complex culinary kits, the product range offered the public has revealed the new needs of consumers and their basic alimentary function along with collective representations of our society. The relative values accorded to dietetic discourse (varying constantly accor ding to modes) and vacation time (even if the latter concerns but half the french public) influence alimentary behaviour. It is the valorization of these two influences that serves as the subject of the author's analysis. The increased distance between the work place and home, the spreading adoption of a continuous uninterrupted workday, and the entrance of more women into the workforce are all factors that have encouraged the development of new restaurants styles as contemporary alternatives to existing meal plans at both cafeterias and fixed-menu establishments. These changes in the conception of nourrishment have come into direct colli sion with a more customary dietetic sensibility most notably at a regional level. The acceptance of new and different dietetic practices relies on a door to door diffusion of novelty. Nevertheless, the famous "paradox of the omnivore" still holds true for contemporary consumer is obsessed with variety as much as he or she is with a notion of security.

Abstract FR:

Des annees 1960 a la fin des annees 1980, les transformations des modes de vie mais aussi l'accroissement des revenus ont permis une restructuration du repertoire alimentaire des francais. De la blancheur hygienique a la crudite, du tout-pret industriel au "kit" culinaire valorisant, les caracteristiques du produit alimentaire trahissent les besoins nouveaux des consommateurs et l'imbrication de la fonction alimentaire avec les representations collectives de notre societe. La valorisation du discours dietetique, fluctuant selon les modes, celle des vacances, meme si elles ne concernent que la moitie des francais, sont l'objet d'une analyse specifique dans leur influence sur les comportements alimentaires. L'eloignement entre le lieu du travail et le domicile, la generalisation de la journee continue, le travail salarie des femmes, sont autant de facteurs qui ont favorise le developpement de nouveaux types de restauration, alternatives contemporaines au repas champetre, a la gamelle ou a la table d'hote. Ces mutations des sensibilites alimentaires contemporaines se heurtent ou se superposent a des continuites -notamment regionales- dans les facons de se nourrir. L'adoption de pratiques alimentaires inhabituelles suppose une veritable domestica- tion de la nouveaute. Le celebre "paradoxe de l'omnivore" ne cesse d'etre verifie : le mangeur francais contemporain est tout aussi avide de variete que de securite.